Lake Tahoe – California – Nigel Calaghan

We concentrated our climbing on Lovers Leap in South Tahoe. It is the middle grade traditional climbers dream crag. Fantastic rock. More featured than Tuolomne meadows with the reknowned Dykes, horizontal ribs of rock they can range from climbing up a ladder ‘Dyke Hiking’ to smearing up desperate creases. Most routes are 3-5 (long)pitches.

North Lake Tahoe climbing is concentrated around the town of Trukee. There is great granite climbing around the high Doner  Pass and also excellent bolted climbing on volcanic rock at The Big Chief

Recommended routes.

Traveller Buttress. 5.9.  A big adventure route with great crack climbing and a nasty offwidth half way up finish off with acres of dike hiking to the top. Corrugation corner 5.7 ‘A stonking climb up a huge corner one of the main features of the crag’. The Line 5.9 ‘ A 400ft crack that just keeps going’. Haystack 5.8 ‘ Great multipitch classic’. Other route. They all look fantastic. Hospital corner 5.10a, Bears reach 5.7 etc.

Other crags near Lovers Leap; Sugar loaf, Phantom Spires, Echo Lakes.


South Lake Tahoe. Supertopo.

Mountain project.

For a guide book to the Norht Lake tahoe Area we visited Sports xchange in Trukee a very friendly climbing shop. 


For Lovers Leap and surroundings we found the Forestry Service Lovers Leap campsite great. You can roll out of bed and onto a route and most crags are within an hours drive. 300yds away is the Strawberry lodge an old style pub that does good food and accommodation and sells showers for your weekly wash .

Accommodation for North Tahoe is less amenable. The are campsites at Trukee but no obvious cheap lodgings.

When to climb, Weather and Seasons

June to September. Lower altitude so generally more clement weather. You have to choose the route for the day those granite wall get hot in the sunshine 

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